Propaganda Textiles

London’s Fashion and Textile Museum

The British fashion historian Amber Butchart, has curated a fascinating collection exploring Propaganda Textiles at London’s Fashion and Textile Museum. Many of the pieces in the exhibition are part of Amber’s personal collection, and we seem to have a similar overlap in taste – I could probably put on a fairly exciting exhibition of my own vintage fashion and textile propaganda memorabilia! (I think that’s for another post…)

The museum architecture

The Fashion and Textile Museum building itself has long been a favourite of mine, designed by Ricardo Legorreta, and built in 2001, I’ll pop a link at the bottom of this article so that you can read more about it – the area is full of cool coffee shops, places to eat, and fabulous Bermondsey architecture, so I’d urge you to check out The Fabric of Democracy exhibition before it closes on the 3rd March. Make a day of it.

Bermondsey’s iconic pink and orange Museum was founded in 2003 by Dame Zandra Rhodes – did I ever tell you that I’ve had a glass of fizz on the penthouse roof garden? Look up, you’ll see the greenery peering down at you.

The Fabric of Democracy: Propaganda Textiles from the French Revolution to Brexit

I was personally drawn to a couple of really fascinating ‘upcycled’ materials repurposing stories which I’ll share here.

Maps

During the Second World War, fabric ‘escape’ maps were carried by flying personnel in case they needed to bail out over enemy territory. Made of silk, which cleverly means they didn’t disintegrate if they got wet. And also avoided the rustling noise that paper maps would make, so that they could be used silently.

Rationing and creativity went hand-in-hand. Some fine examples of lingerie made from the surplus stock, whilst regular fabrics were rationed.

Feed and Flour Sacks for clothing

From the 1920s to 1960s, after realising that people were using sack cloth to make clothes and toys for their children, brands started designing and printing patterns onto their animal feed sacks and flour sacks.

Rubber into aircraft, or to make boots

There was a fabulous collection of Pathe film clips playing on a loop, such as this one showing how to make “a bootiful bootie that can be slipped on in a jiffy before you slip out to the shelter”. It is made out of scraps of rubber “the best protection against blast”.

Amongst the many scarves in the exhibition, the ‘salvage your rubber’ scarf on loan from the Paul and Karen Rennie Collection*. This Jacqmar design built on the government propaganda that encouraged people to salvage materials to help reduce shortages.

American politics

I was interested to see the inclusion of the the home-knitted pussyhat pattern, worn by many during the 2017/2019 Women’s Marches protesting against Trump’s election, and his Access Hollywood tapes which he later dismissed as ‘locker-room banter’.

In place of the Donald Trump kippah also on display, I’d have liked to have seen mention of the contentious Ivana Trump coat from 2018, and I’m still @incredibusy proudly wearing my Howies alternative message – we really do care.

Late nights and Fizz at the Museum

If you can make it this Thursday 29th February there’s a special evening late-night opening of The Fabric of Democracy.

All tickets booked for entry between 17:00 – 19:00 on Thursday 29th February include exhibition entry and a free glass of fizz.

Book your London’s Fashion and Textile Museum tickets: click here ends March 3rd

The exhibits here are very official government line rather than any opposition movements, however, visiting this exhibition has prompted me to re-read my own art school ‘women in design’ thesis, with a focus on the Women’s suffrage art protest banners.

Further exhibitions and reading

I’m planning a trip in the spring, to visit Manchester to see the Banner Exhibition at the People’s History Museum, the national museum of democracy.

I’m very much looking forward to returning to the museum to see the BIBA STORY 22 March – 8 September 2024, who fancies joining me?

Museum Location: 83 Bermondsey St, London SE1 3XF

Read more about the design and build here www.legorreta.mx/en/proyecto-museo-zandra-rhodes

*Find Paul & Karen Rennie’s shop in Folkestone, and on instagram @renniesseaside

Amber’s website: www.amberbutchart.com

Photos: Ali Clifford, and Ruth Eaton.